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    Back to Flat Tops Wilderness Area

    By PK | August 26, 2008

    I can’t think of a better way to spend a Sunday evening as we drove throughout Routt County and into Garfield County. It had been some time since we went down Forestry Road 910 off Hwy 131 outside of Toponas, Colorado. When out in this area, we love to stop at the Toponas store and get an ice cream cone. It’s a little country store that has everything a person could need for the residents in that area without having to travel very far.

    Going down Forestry Road 910 headed towards the Flat Tops Wilderness Area, the first lake you come to is Gardener Lake Reservoir. There’s a trailhead nearby, Gardener Park Interpretive Trail if you’d like to hike in this area. We pushed on this time. I haven’t been past Bear Lake since the last time I visited back in early June, it was still closed due to snow. I was anxiously awaiting to see the entrance to Flat Tops Wilderness.

    The views from Gardener Park Reservoir are spectacular as you can see high mountain pastures where I’m sure there is elk hiding from the warm climate we are still having recently. I’m thinking this is Orno Peak, but not sure.

    The Chinese Wall, part of the Flat Tops Wilderness can be seen far away.

    This area is abundant with wildlife as a ground squirrel came by to visit as we were leaving. We continued on Forestry Road 910 until it ended onto Forestry Road 900, which is more traveled and comes out of Yampa, Colorado.

    At a picnic area I seen this young mule deer. She froze, thinking she was well hidden in the brush. Never once did she blink, flinch, or flicker an ear as I took pictures of her.

    Even driving closer, she held her stance, although she continued to gaze at me with interest.

    The next beautiful lake we came to was the Yamcolo Reservoir. Over 12,000 years ago, Columbian Mammoths grazed in this area on the grasses, sage brush, willows and spruce trees. Their bones were discovered during the construction of this reservoir.

    There were quite a few people enjoying their Sunday evening fishing in the reservoir. Forestry Road 900 continues around Yamcolo where there are many places to pull off, enjoy a picnic or fish. Follow along the lake in this picture and to the far side, you can see the road we traveled.

    Our next stop along this route is Bear Lake. The last time I was here was in June and there was quite a bit of snow still lingering. We hiked around the lake and up the mountain a little ways where I got to play in the snow. Being originally from Tennessee, it is still amazing to me to see snow throughout the summer months. But I’ve discovered there are mountains here in Colorado that have snow year round.

    The Bear Lake Campground rests along Bear Lake  and is open May through September. It is located on Forestry Road 900 out of Yampa. The sites are 29 sites and is limited to RVs under 25′. The amenities are toilets, water, picnic tables, hiking, and fishing. There are also 6 picnic sites available along Forestry Road 900 near Bear Lake. Campfires are allowed but only in the metal rings. Elevation 9600′. No reservations are accepted for the picnic areas. Call 719-274-8971 for more information and rates.

    Mandall Lakes Trail #1121 is located opposite the Bear Lake Campground and climbs to the Flat Tops Wilderness Area at 1 mile. Traveling up a valley, you reach Slide Mandall Lake at 3 miles and Black Mandall Lake at 3.7 miles. *See author’s note.

    Past the Bear Lake Campground is the Horseshoe Campground and Cold Springs Campground.

    Horseshoe Campground has 7 sites with a 25 ft. RV limit. It is open May through September and has the amenities of toilets, water, picnic tables, hiking, and fishing. Elevation 10,000′. Call 970-638-4516 for more information and rates.

    The Cold Springs Campground has 5 sites with a 30 ft. RV limit. It is also open May through September and has the amenities of toilets, water, picnic tables, hiking and fishing. Elevation 10,400′. Call 970-638-4516 for more information and rates.

    A beautiful valley created by glaciers many, many years ago.

    Forestry Road 900 is quite passable without the need of four-wheel drive during the summer months, but you’ll still bounce as it is washboardy, a great effect for a country drive.

    Another trailhead along this route is Trail #1194, to Smith Lake. This is an easy trail with an elevation gain of 378 feet and is .7 miles in length. Trailhead elevation is 10,192 feet.

    A last burst of color from these wildflowers create quite an effect on this landscape looking back towards the Yampa Valley.

    The entrance to the Flat Tops Wilderness Area. I’m disappointed I won’t get to hike there this year. I am just not ready and my body is not trained enough for the ruggedness of this expedition. I had a genetic heart condition since birth, and it’s only been one and a half years since my corrective surgery. So, I’ll have to patiently wait until next year and train harder to be more prepared. It will be my ultimate hiking experience.

    We did hike a short distance up the trail. It was chilly as the wind blew across Stillwater Reservoir, but well worth the few steps to see Stillwater.

    There are several trailheads into the Flat Tops Wilderness Area at this northern point.

    North Derby Trail #1122 - As the trail leaves the reservoir, it passes through several parks and begins its ascent through spruce/fir forest. At mile .8 you enter the Flat Tops Wilderness at an elevation of 10,445 feet. After a short downhill grade, the trail passes a few small ponds and once again begins to climb towards the pass. At mile 1.9 you reach the highest point of the trail, at an elevation of 11,200 feet. This saddle divides the Yampa River/White River watersheds as well as the Routt/White River National Forests. You may then climb to the highest point in the wilderness, at the top of Flat Top Mountain, elevation of 12,354 feet, by heading east along the divide for another 2.1 miles. By staying on the trail, instead, you will head south and reach Hooper Lake at mile 3.0. Keener Lake lies to the southwest of Hooper Lake. *See Author’s note.

    East Fork Trail #1119 - The southern part of this trail begins in the parking lot of the Stillwater Reservoir. The first .8 miles it joins with the Bear River Trail #1120, then splits to the north and climbs to the divide separating the Bear River and the Williams Fork drainage at 11,600′. To view the Devil’s Causeway, ascend the high ridge to the southwest of this divide. A side trail makes a steep ascent to the Devils Causeway possible.

    Crossing the divide on the main trail, you’ll pass the junction of Mandall Lakes Trail #1121 and decend down into Williams Fork Valley. You’ll pass Causeway Lake and Lost Lakes Trail #1116 intersection at 6.4 miles at Round Lake. Continuing north, the trail crosses the East Fork of the Williams Fork River and intersects the Black Mountain Creek Trail #1117 at 8.2 miles. The trail makes another river crossing and intersects the north end of Lost Lakes Trail. This river can be dangerous during high water. At 11.6 miles, you’ll come to the Transfer Trail #1172 and then leaves the wilderness and leads down to the trailhead on Forestry Road 16, near the Pyramid Guard Station. *See Author’s note.

    (Stock Photograph of Devil’s Causeway, not for the faint-hearted!)

    Other junction trailheads are:

    Black Mountain Creek Trail #1117 - This trail begins just opposite the Sheriff Reservoir dam.
    The first mile of trail follows an old logging road as it winds through a large meadow. This area is very beautiful in July and August due to the variety of wildflowers that you can find. The trail becomes very steep as it crosses a shale outcrop at mile 1.4. Great care must be taken when crossing this spot, especially for horse riders, after a rain or snow. The trail turns south and traverses an area known as Windy Gap. From here you can look to the west into Bunker Creek and to the east into the Trout Creek drainage. The trail enters the Flat Tops Wilderness at mile 2.5, the highest point in the trail, at an elevation of 11,125 feet. Looking to the north you can see Dunckley Pass and the Dunckley Flat Tops. To the east you can see Sand Point. Pyramid Peak is only a 1 mile hike to the west. Continuing, the trail descends into the East Fork Williams Fork drainage, traveling through open parks and finally through spruce/fir forest to join with trail 1119. *See Author’s note.

    Chinese Wall Trail #1803 - an excellent source of information for hiking the Chinese Wall here. Also maps you can print of the Chinese Wall Trail and other trails mentioned in this article. *See Author’s note.

    Stillwater Reservoir was built in 1940. I’m standing on the earthen dam as I took this picture.

    A grizzly whiskered groundhog lives on the backside of the dam.

    This marmot rests basking in the sun’s rays enjoying his beautiful, but harsh surroundings.

    Looking across the dam I snapped this picture of storm clouds moving across the Flat Tops Wilderness.

    Next time I’ll be more aptly prepared, not only body and soul, but footwear wiser!!

    *Author’s Note: These trails provides direct access to the Flat Tops Wilderness. Please know regulations and practice “Leave No Trace.” Hiking in the wilderness can be a dangerous and unpredictable activity. Bloggingus.com can and will assume no liability for injuries associated with the use of information provided on this site. The trail data provided is to be used for informational purposes only and not intended to be the sole source of technical information you use. If you are unsure about your ability to hike a certain trail, it is recommended you contact your physician for a physical evaluation. It is ALWAYS recommended you talk with National Park Rangers or your local Forest Ranger before setting out on a trail.

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    Topics: "Post Cards From the West", Colorado, Colorado Campgrounds, Hiking, Camping, Fishing,, Routt National Forest |

    2 Responses to “Back to Flat Tops Wilderness Area”

    1. Justin Wright Says:

      Those are some very cool pictures. I love taking pictures of wildlife as much as I can.

    2. Barb Says:

      Oh my goodness that is gorgeous country PK! (your footwear looks like mine…unless I’m barefoot which is 90% of the time)

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